Diversity in the beauty – Are other brands following Fenty’s lead?

Before the launch of Fenty Beauty, the beauty industry seemed to be at a stand still. Uninteresting launch followed uninteresting launch and there was very little progression in inclusion. Since its launch in September 2017, Fenty has delivered on their promise of inclusivity for all skin tones and genders, with it even getting named by TIME magazine as one of the best inventions of 2017. But have other brands receptive to calls for diversity in beauty?

Diversity has always been an issue in the beauty industry, but very little attention had been paid to it by large, white-owned brands. There is an odd misconception/excuse that black people don’t wear foundation that has resulted in many brands overlooking darker shades. The success of Fenty’s line and the excitement that still surrounds the brand shows that people of colour do indeed buy makeup, and when they find a range that caters to them, they’re going spend some serious money. It took an industry disruptor and a prominent person of colour like Rihanna to demonstrate this and show that the old norm is no longer acceptable.

Fenty Beauty undoubtedly opened the eyes of the consumer to the total lack of diversity in the industry. For many, it was glaringly obvious already, but for others, they didn’t realise the extent of the issue. Now, whenever a brand releases a complexion product, people of all skin tones are looking at the shades with a critical eye – questioning where the shades are for dark-deep skin tones, where the varying undertones are, where olive undertones are etc. By bringing out a foundation line with 40 shades (now extended to 50), Fenty demonstrated that it could be done and set the bar high for other brands to follow suit. There is now an expectationΒ for foundations to come to the market with an inclusive shade range right off the bat – and one that is totally realistic. While it may not always be possible to launch 50 shades immediately (especially for indie brands) as long as there is an even spread of shades between the skin tones (fair, light, medium, tan, dark, deep), then you can’t say fairer than that.

Some brands have since been quick to expand their shade ranges following Fenty’s success, but now it’s difficult to judge whether brands are placing inclusivity at the forefront of their own accord or because it’s a wise PR move. The major beauty conglomerates are playing catch up, while trying to maintain the fascade that they’re still at the front of the pack. A new game has begun where brands are trying to out-do each other with the number of shades they can come out with. Fenty came out with 40, Morphe came out with 50, now PUR is coming out with 100. Does it seem genuine? Honestly, I don’t think so. Diversity has become a trend that brands are subscribing to just to say that they do, otherwise they would’ve come out with more inclusive products much earlier. Does it matter whether the effort is genuine as long as it’s happening? Supposedly not, but the shades have to be good – the undertones have to be right, there needs to be a wide range and the shades need to go deep enough. We’ve all witnessed the backlash a brand receives when they don’t make the effort with diversity, but now it seem as though brands feel that it’s something they have to do rather than something they are driven organically to do.

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This couldn’t be better demonstrated than by the brands that are still missing the mark.Β When IT Cosmetics were asked why there were only 3 shades out of 12 geared towards darker skin, they claimed that due to the SPF in their CC cream they couldn’t go any deeper. YSL equally came out with a new foundation recently (see above) that included just 2 darker shades. These attitudes are highly disappointing – not only does it clearly flaunt the fact that inclusion is not a priority but it also highlights that there is an element of bias or carelessness that they think it is still acceptable. Such blatant exclusion won’t fly much longer. As demonstrated by Beauty Blender and Tarte, if you get it wrong your product/brand can become ‘cancelled’. Too much focus on one end of the spectrum simply won’t cut it anymore – the consumer is demandingΒ inclusion. Even with the recent relaunch of Tarte’s defunct Shape Tape foundation (now as the Face Tape foundation) where the shade range was expanded, the memory of such an exclusive shade range left people cold. Getting the shade range right has never been more important and yet brands are still slow on the uptake.

Taking failing brands as an example, it is clear that not everyone understands the importance of true diversity. Soon it won’t be the case where it’s optional. Shade ranges will continue to improve, understanding of shades will develop and brands will have a genuine desire to release makeup to fit everyone. We have come a long way in just a few years, so the next few years should be monumental.

What are your thoughts on diversity in the beauty industry?

Xo

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Sephora haul and testing

So this month I went on holiday to Italy… and Europe means SEPHORA! If you don’t know, the UK does not have Sephora. We used to be able to order from the US site but you now can only order from the French site, which has far fewer brands. Regardless, as soon as I found out where I was going I looked up where Sephora was…

I ended up going to 3 different Sephora’s – 2 in Venice and 1 in Verona. Here is what I got and my impressions after using them a few times:

Farmacy – Honey Potion mask

This mask is a firm cult favourite among beauty bloggers on Instagram, and this purchase was definitely a ‘Insta made me do it’. The packaging and the product itself are gorgeous! The texture is much more solid than I expected – I thought it to be goopy like honey but it’s more waxy. I didn’t realise the mask had a warming effect until I had bought it. It’s worth noting that it’s not an intense warming sensation like some cheap packet masks can be (the ones that burn your face), but it’s gentle. When you apply it, the mask is orange like it is in the pot, but you have to massage it into the skin to turn it white. It doesn’t take too long to turn the waxy orange goop into white foam. After washing it off, my skin feels super smooth. Other than the immediate feeling of smoothness, I can’t really say that I noticed much more of a difference in my skin. It did feel hydrated and not desperate for moisturiser unlike some of the other masks I’ve used (Sand and sky I’m looking at you). I’m going to keep using it and see if I can spot any improvements from sustained use.

Marc Jacobs – Dew Drops in Dew You

This was such an impulse buy! I’d seen this around and always thought it looked lovely. I was a little unsure whether the colour would be too dark for my skin tone, but after walking towards it and away from it about 5 times, I put it in my basket. The first time I tried to use it was over the top of my Hourglass stuck foundation, and rather than looking like a subtle glow it was so apparent that something was on my cheek bones. It ended up looking like a dry, dull yellow on my skin and I had to go over it. Maybe it was the stick foundation? It did the same with my Charlotte Tilbury magic foundation, and I used much less. HOWEVER, this works AMAZINGLY well underneath my Vanish foundation. I coated myself in a full pump of it, and it made the foundation look dewy (I find the formula to be very try and can really emphasise dry patches). I also really like to wear a small amount of this when I’m not wearing proper makeup for work as it gives me that healthy glow!

Sol de Janiero – Brazilian Bum Bum Cream

I’ve had this before and liked it, but let’s be honest it’s the smell that brings you back for more. I do plan on doing a little science experiment with this one so stay tuned! The smell, of course, is to die for and in my experience it does deliver in removing or reducing the appearance of cellulite. I am not usually someone who bothers moisturising their entire body (because I HATE the feeling when your clothes get stuck to you) so I forget to apply this a lot.

Foreo – Luna Play

I have had my eye on Foreo’s for aaaaaages, but they’ve always been a bit out of my price range. I had never used a cleansing tool before and was a little unsure whether I’d get much use out of it, or even like it for my skin type! The difference in the smoothness of my skin is definitely noticeable – and I already have smooth skin. It doesn’t feel like it’s doing to much when you manoeuvre this around your face, but when you remove your cleanser, that’s when you really feel the difference! If you are interested in trying out this type of product, I’d definitely recommend the Luna Play because it’s much more affordable than the other versions they offer. After having had this one, I’m just going to keep changing the battery when it runs out rather than purchase a rechargeable. The battery allegedly lasts 100 uses, but I’ve probably been using it once a week? Mainly because I forget but also because I like to use this when I’ve worn quite a lot of makeup, and at the moment I’m wearing minimal makeup all the time.

Patchology – Rejuvinating Eye Gels

I have never used eye masks before, but I see so many people using them on IG. I only got the small pack where you get 5 sets, so I’m reluctant to use them even though I really want to! I liked them when I first used them but I wouldn’t say they’re revolutionary. I’d definitely be tempted to put them in the fridge before I use them again to get that cooling affect. I didn’t notice a visible difference in my under eye area, but I’m not someone who has really dark under eye.

Dr Jart+ – Vital Hydra Solution

This was actually the first thing I picked up from Dr Jart (before I went a bit crazy in Verona). I haven’t tried this yet, but have really high hopes for it. People only seem to have good things to say about Dr Jart, and I have faith that this is going to be really good.

Sephora – Cucumber Eye Mask

I went a little eye mask happy on this trip, but again I’m trying to space out when I use these. I’m expecting these to be a thinner jelly to the psychology ones, but I’m interested to see the benefits of using cucumber on the eye area!

Sephora – Shea Lip Mask

I’ve done a lip mask before (from Sephora) and as far as I can remember it wasn’t anything life changing, but I’m such a sucker for all the Sephora masks (can you tell?)

Sephora – Aloe Vera Hand MaskI’ve used the hand masks from Sephora before, and while I don’t usually notice a massive difference, they’re just fun to use My hands get dry very easily, so I think it takes something a little stronger than essence to repair my hands.

Dr Jart+ – Ceramidin Cream

OH. MY. GOSH. We have a holy grail ladies and gentlemen! When I tried this out in store, I was like yeah I think I’m gonna like this and I absolutely adore it. I somehow managed to get this for free? I accidentally picked up the tester (because it wasn’t labelled!) but it was completely full and unused! Couldn’t believe my luck! It’s a beautiful thick cream that is an amazing moisturiser. It has a really pleasant smell that isn’t over perfumed like some other brands. I really like a thick moisturiser, and this has replaced all moisturisers in my routine, morning and evening. My mum had a really sore dry patch on her finger and asked if I had a good moisturiser for it, so I put a bit of this on there and by the next morning her hand was back to normal. I think I’ve tempted her to buy it too. I stopped by Selfridges a week after I got back from Italy and SO NEARLY bought a back up of this, despite being NO. WHERE. NEAR. The end of the tube. It is going down quickly though…

Dr Jart+ – Cicapair Cream

I really like the idea of this because I have a lot of redness in my skin naturally. I had been eyeing this one up too and had been planning on buying the mini version from Selfridges. That went out the window when I spotted this in Verona and got he full sized. It is a bit of a weird consistency and I’m not sure that I’m a fan. It feels like I am pulling on my skin a lot, which I’m not in to at all. However, the result is really good. I notice a definite reduction in redness, and the green cream changes to a beige when you start to work this into the skin. I don’t know whether it matches to your skin tone somehow but it is not to dark for my very fair skin (for reference I am usually the lightest foundation in most ranges I’ve tried). I’ve been wearing this for work underneath my tinted SPF (which also seems to reduce my redness), so I have a really nice even base and even a little bit of coverage. I’ll definitely be using up the pot, but I’d consider another version from the Cicapair range instead.

Beautyblender

I absolutely love beautyblenders and wouldn’t really consider another beauty sponge. I used to use the real techniques one, but it’s so much more dense than BB and I feel like the blend is far superior with BB. The last time I bought a new beauty blender was in Rome last year, so I figured it was time for a new one!

I need more trips to Europe this year… OR SEPHORA COULD FINALLY COME TO THE UK!? Though if it did do that, I’m not sure I’d ever have any money in my bank account…

Xo

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